What’s the Project? Do you ever take a look at your sewing machine and wonder what in the world are all those stitches!? This guide to sewing machine stitches will take you beyond the straight stitch and zigzag and help you figure out what all those others are as well.
Have you ever taken a look at your sewing machine and the stitches available to be used and wondered what on Earth all those stitches do?
Me too.
Sewing machines vary in which stitches they offer. Some offer just some basic ones, some offer a ton. Mine has about 100 stitches and that can be overwhelming! So I am breaking it down and helping you understand your sewing machine stitches today.
The truth is that I am writing this post with my machine manual next to me, because frankly, I don’t use a lot of these stitches and don’t fully know what they are. So you are not alone.
Your machine will have different stitches than mine or might display them differently, but hopefully, this will help you figure out what some of those sewing machine stitches mean.
First of all though, I’ve also got a guide on how to use your sewing machine if you need to start there for some basics. Then look at the stitches more closely.
And once you’re done with those, this sewing dictionary might help you understand when reading a pattern.
Understanding Sewing Machine Stitches:
Here’s the first batch, and really, the main stitches that you will use while sewing.
Basic Stitches:
1-Straight Stitch: Just your basic straight sewing stitch that you will use the majority of the time while sewing.
2-Straight Stitch with Needle Far to the Left: The will allow you to sew far to the left if needed.
3-Lock-a-Matic Stitch: This stitch will automatically knot at the beginning and end of your sewing without you needing to backstitch
4-Locking Stitch: This stitch will do an invisible knotting stitch at the beginning and end of your sewing. For when you need the knotting to be invisible.
5-Triple Stretch Stitch: For use when you need something to have a lot of stretch but also sturdiness. For example, in an armpit of a shirt.
6-Zigzag Stitch: Your classic zigzag stitch. (See Learn to Sew series for information on this.)
7-Multiple Zigzag Stitch: Use this stitch to finish the edges on a stretchy fabric that is inclined to pucker if you use the regular stitch. This will help prevent that from happening.
8-Overcasting Stitch: This is used to finish an edge. On my machine this is paired with a special foot-the Overedge Foot, that guides the fabric as you sew. Check your manual to see if you have this option.
9-Knit Stitch-This stitch if for sewing on knits and stretchy fabric. Sew along the edge of the fabric with a larger than normal seam allowance and then trim off the excess, unsewn fabric on the seam close to the stitches.
10- Stretch Stitch-Use for sewing on knits or other times when you need the stitching to be able to stretch. (More about this in my ebook.)
11-Blind Hem Stretch: Use to sew a blind hem on stretch fabrics.
12-Blind Hem: Use to sew a blind hem.
Buttonhole Stitches:
These are my buttonhole stitches-used for various types of buttonholes, eyelets, and openings:
13-Sensor Buttonhole: This will create a buttonhole just the size needed for my button if I place the button in a special foot that I use while sewing this stitch.
14-Automatic Buttonhole: This one will automatically create a buttonhole if I tell the machine what size the button is.
15-Round End Buttonhole: Used on medium weight fabrics typically.
16-Keyhole Buttonhole: This buttonhole is used on lightweight, delicate fabrics.
17-Rounded Keyhole Buttonhole: This one is good on medium and heavy weight fabrics and is great with bigger buttons.
18-Stretch Buttonhole: Use this on stretchy fabrics.
19- Knit Buttonhole: For use on knit fabrics.
20-Button Sewing: With this and a special foot, I can sew a button in place.
21-Darning Stitch: This will repair rips and holes.
22-Tracking: Reinforce place where extra strength is needed such as pockets and crotches.
23-Eyelet: Creates an eyelet hole.
24-Basting Stitch
Satin Stitches:
These stitches are called satin stitches and are created in a tight zigzag. These stitches are decorative, for the edge of a blanket or things like that.
LS-Locking Stitch: Creates an invisible knot.
Edge Stitches:
These decorative stitches finish off edges of fabric:
35-Saddle Stitch-Not sure what this one is for. If someone knows, please help me out!
36-Saddle Stitch-Not sure what this one is for. If someone knows, please help me out!
37-Double Overedge Stitch: Use this stitch to finish the edges of fabric that tends to fray a lot.
38-Overlock Stitch: This stitch creates a finish along the edge similar to what a serger would create. Creates a more professional looking finish.
39-Shell Tuck Stitch: Decorative Stitch for edging
40-Applique Stitch: Use to applique things on and have a nice, finished applique edge.
Fancy Stitches:
My machine also has a whole bunch of fancy and fun stitches that can be used to decorate as you sew. See some of them above.
Did this help? Did you discover any sewing machine stitches on your machine that you didn’t know you had? I did!
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nancy fischer says
September 9, 2014 at 8:44 amSO HELPFUL!!
Diane says
March 1, 2019 at 5:56 pmThank you so much.. it is has been a great help for me.
Amber says
March 7, 2019 at 10:02 amYou’re welcome!
Brigitte Breuker says
September 9, 2014 at 9:20 amThis was awesome! I am teaching myself to sew and now I can use the proper stitch for whatever I am doing! Thank you!
Megan says
September 9, 2014 at 9:46 amBrilliant! Thanks for posting! Now I’m lusting after stitches your machine does that mine doesn’t ;-)
Amber says
September 9, 2014 at 8:57 pm:)
Tavette says
September 9, 2014 at 11:21 amMy older machine doesn’t do half of these, but I’m saving your article and my next machine WILL have them. :) Thanks
Tavette – S. Fla.
Myki says
September 9, 2014 at 12:03 pmI love my Brother machine, I call her ” Beauty”. I have read that manual over and over like a favorite love story, it is heavily hi-lighted and I have written notes in it. Being a beginner sewist I make samples of new techniques. This is a learning journey that I look forward to.
Rebecca says
December 30, 2017 at 4:30 pmBrilliant! I need to create that, too!
Susan Ramsay says
February 21, 2018 at 3:37 pmMyki, good for you. so many of us never look at the manual, and it has so much helpful information.
Using the right needle and thread is VERY important when using fancy stitches.
Debbie says
September 9, 2014 at 2:14 pmWow, Amber! Thank you so much. I have some of those stitches on my machine and I never knew what some of them were for. I can’t wait to try them out!
Betty L. says
September 9, 2014 at 3:42 pmAmber, you are so generous to share your knowledge with us! This is SO helpful!
Hazel Bartoszek says
September 10, 2014 at 10:18 amThank you so much ,I’ve just gotten the Janome 8900 this is really helpful.
stephany says
September 10, 2014 at 10:56 amAmber, THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!! I was just thinking of researching all.the different stitches on my machine. Question: Which Janine machine is this?
stephany says
September 10, 2014 at 10:57 amJanome* darn auto correct!
Amber says
September 10, 2014 at 9:25 pmJanome Memory Craft 9500
Donna says
January 30, 2018 at 4:12 pmGreat explanations! I have this exact machine!
Kathleen Ely says
September 11, 2014 at 2:06 amWhen I first started quilting 5 years ago and my brother bought me a Bernina I bought a gorgeous blue and green jelly roll. I sewed the strips together, then quilted it by stitching in the ditch, using a different stitch for each, as well as variegated thread. I learned which stitches were good for quilting and how the thread turned out for each stitch. My son loves that quilt!
Susan Ramsay says
February 21, 2018 at 3:41 pmKathleen, I love the variegated thread, but as you may have learned, don’t use shads of blue on blue quilting. Some of the blue in the thread will match exactly the blue you have in part of the quilt, and it wil look like you forgot to quilt that section. You could watch your spool and pull off that part, but that would be pretty tedious!
Sarah says
September 11, 2014 at 6:41 amReally handy, I’ve recently won an Elna sewing machine, so this is a great help. Thanks
Becky Potter says
September 11, 2014 at 10:37 amGREAT Help!
Milagros santiago says
September 12, 2014 at 5:22 amThanks a lot. I lke sewing and this is awsome
elizabeth says
September 14, 2014 at 12:36 pmI am very interested in learning how to sew. I have a sewing machine but don’t know how to use it. I’m having trouble finding a sewing class in my area. Is it possible to teach myself
leslie long says
September 26, 2014 at 6:11 pmYes you can! If you have a Joann fabrics near you try them for classes. If not get some fabric , get your manual and just play. If I can teach my self to quilt you can learn to sew. Learn your machine first. Good thread and good fabric.. Good luck. Leslie
Erin says
September 17, 2014 at 6:07 amThank you so much for this. This was SO HELPFUL and I am putting this on one of my pinterest boards to be able to look back on it. I am a NOVICE at sewing, but my parents gave me a machine a couple years ago because I crochet and like to add linings and backings. I have had absolutely no idea what anything really meant on my machine and I always just use the basic straight stitch. I really needed this!!! Thank you thank you thank you!!!
cheryl goss says
September 30, 2014 at 6:52 amsaddle stitch: This saddle stitch is formed with one stitch forward, two
stitches backward, and a fourth stitch forward.
You can achieve a lovely hand-worked look when
topstitching suits, blazers, jumpers and denim outfits with
the saddle stitch. i also read that it is very strong. i don’t know if this helps, but since your article was so helpful i wanted to see if i could answer your question. if not, just google “saddle stitch” and narrow it down from there. this answer is directly from janome. good luck…
Jocelyn Alfaro says
October 5, 2014 at 8:53 pmAmber , I’m so glad I opened your post. Thank you so much for the very helpful information. I was ignoring all these stitches and I thought I would not be able to use them. With your selfless sharing, I now appreciate I have these stitches on my sewing machine! God bless you my dear.
Amy Nelson says
October 12, 2014 at 6:07 amThe far left stich #2 is useful for sewing zips, particularly invisible zips. :)
Camille. Milevskiy says
October 16, 2014 at 3:39 amsaddle stitch number 36 is meant to use as a hand look quilting stitch. You put your normal thread in the top of machine and put invisible thread in the bobbin. Thread the machine and bobbin as normal. Take your tension up to a much higher number and you will see the invisible thread being pulled up from underneath to make the second part of the stitch. It look nice when finished. But remember to put your tension back after finishing.
Suzie says
October 31, 2014 at 3:08 amCan you suggest a good machine for $200-$300 range? I used to make all my clothes 20 years ago, and I’m looking forward to getting back to sewing.
Amber says
November 5, 2014 at 9:00 amI always recommend Janome. I think they have some good machines in that price range!!
Suzie says
November 5, 2014 at 11:20 amThanks! Better than a Brother? I think I want to go with electronic and don’t want a zillion extra stitches, but would like a nice choice and 1 step button holes, plus stretch stitches. Any particular Janome model(s) you would recommend?
Amber says
November 5, 2014 at 12:16 pmI don’t know for sure. I have a very high end Janome and I just feel like it is a really good quality machine. I haven’t tried others, I just really trust Janome
Ashley says
April 23, 2015 at 7:55 pmi just got the Janome Juno J1250. I had a budget in that same price range and this came to $335 with tax. I haven’t tried it yet but I’m excited to!
Darlene says
September 21, 2016 at 7:31 pmI worked at Sears for years selling Kenmore sewing machines and holding machine instruction classes. All my machines are Kenmore. The stitch selections are color coded and the accessories and parts are very user friendly. My first tank was a brother and worked great but the Kenmores had bells and whistles I love and use regularly. Button holes and applique work seriously easy and fun. They are also made by Janome. Lots of great machines out there.
Amber says
September 21, 2016 at 10:37 pmI love Kenmore too!
Vikki says
December 30, 2014 at 12:24 pmStitch 40 is also called a blanket stitch. Sometimes a pattern will say, “blanket stitch” and that can be used to do it by machine.
Jennifer says
January 20, 2015 at 9:38 pmI also have a Janome sewing machine i am trying to find out if it has amero stitching and if so which one is it.
Amber says
January 22, 2015 at 4:03 pmSorry-not sure what you mean?
Michelle says
March 24, 2016 at 4:14 amI think Jennifer (1/20/2015) meant merrow stitch. She might be looking for a serger or a cover stitch machine.
Patty says
January 25, 2015 at 12:57 pmAmber, thank you for posting this useful info! I’ve been sewing for a good number of years and just ignore some of those stitches. Now I know what they were really intended for
Nicole says
January 29, 2015 at 3:21 pmThank you so much for posting this! I recently got a Janome with a million more stitches than my 80s Singer had, and was completely lost. The handbook only helps so much.
I wanted to let you know that I’ve linked to this page on my blog, where I have a list of sewing resources. Let me know if you would prefer I remove this page…or if you have any other sewing resources you could recommend! Thanks again for these amazing tips!
http://restlessweaver.blogspot.com/p/sewing-resources.html
Marlize says
February 13, 2015 at 6:56 amSo so helpfull, thank you!!!
Vanda says
February 22, 2015 at 1:38 amThanks for your concise explanations. Will be pinning a printed copy on wall above my machine for quick reference. Saves time not plowing through the inst. book.
Angel Flores says
March 2, 2015 at 10:53 pmThanks for sharing this post, it has helped me so much!
Miki says
March 21, 2015 at 7:44 amI read this article in hopes of learning about what Janome’s can do…. just in case my current machine breaks;) Only problem, now I want a Janome! Great post!
Lisa says
March 27, 2015 at 3:05 pmThank you!!! I always wondered!!!
Nelly Robitaille says
April 14, 2015 at 7:11 pmThank you for the information here, it help me to look a little deep into my machine and see how it really work. I am going to have a lot of fun now.
Leigh-Ann says
April 27, 2015 at 8:55 pm#9 is a 3pt zig zag. Its great for hems as well, it makes a stretchy stitch, less prone to breaking than a zig zag. I use it to sew elastic waist bands, and to hem t-shirts.
Donna says
May 22, 2015 at 4:55 amthank you so much. I have been sewing for years but did not know what some
of those stitches were for. Great help.
Donna
Jatzio says
May 29, 2015 at 1:08 amThank you for your explanation. Recently bought it from Ch*na. There’s no manual, so this post really helpful!
Judy says
June 18, 2015 at 8:41 pmHi Amber, thanks very much for giving this detailed information. I’m in the market for a machine. Previously I had a Sears (1980’s model) which I sent to goodwill. It still worked but was very heavy & cumbersome. I found a used Janome the same model as yours for $800 and wanted to ask how old your machine is & if you have had any issues with it. I would greatly appreciate any help you can give me in making a decision on purchasing this machine. Thanks.
Amber says
June 19, 2015 at 10:18 pmI have had mine for 10 years and it is a dream! Had to take it in once for some problems but otherwise just perfection.
Judy C says
June 21, 2015 at 10:37 amHi Amber, thanks for your prompt response to my question. It is nice to hear that you’re machine has performed so well for 10 years. I’m a little concerned about the computer touch screen on the machine I’m considering because it is very light and hard to read and can not be made any darker. Also, sometimes you have to touch the screen a few times before it performs the function you want and there is not tone/signal letting you know that it has taken. Have you had any problems with those functions. Thanks again. Judy
Amber says
July 6, 2015 at 12:44 pmYes, sometimes I do have to touch it twice, but it hasn’t been a major problem.
Kat says
June 23, 2015 at 9:15 am#20- the Baymax stitch lol
Kristen says
September 6, 2015 at 8:58 pmIt will be of assistance!
Jen says
August 3, 2015 at 2:03 amThank you so much for this very helpful pin. I tried the ‘number 3’ stitch (lock tite) yesterday and it’s much better than the reverse stitch.
Teresa Marett says
August 16, 2015 at 4:39 pmVery helpful. I’m trying to brush back up on my sewing, so I can start a home-based business. :)
wipaporn says
October 22, 2015 at 9:41 amThanks alot I buy Janome long time but can’t understand 😊
Adam Waddy says
November 28, 2015 at 5:43 pmI am not a professional tailor. I want to buy one mini sewing machine to stitch only old cloths. Please tell me which brand is good?
Amber says
December 2, 2015 at 3:38 pmMy favorite brand is Janome.
Margaret says
January 7, 2016 at 12:47 pmExcellent guide. Thank you.
Margaret says
January 7, 2016 at 12:59 pmThe “Print Friendly ” button does not seem to work.
Diane says
January 10, 2016 at 2:50 amLoved the Blog. Very useful. Thanks for sharing all of this some of these stiches may save me time.
Shirley hale says
January 24, 2016 at 8:46 amI believe your saddle stitches are the same as my homemade quilt look stitches.
Rosemary says
February 21, 2016 at 8:35 amThanks this really helps
Alisha says
March 21, 2016 at 8:21 pmWhat are stitches 45-48 for?
Amber says
May 23, 2016 at 8:52 pmActually, I am really not sure!
Jeannie says
March 30, 2016 at 8:10 amThank you for this it really ehlps
Avalina Kreska says
April 3, 2016 at 10:25 amVery helpful – thank-you
Clare says
April 13, 2016 at 1:55 pmThanks so much. My new Janome manual doesn’t explain many of the stitches, so this article is exactly what I needed. Gold dust!
georgie scott says
April 16, 2016 at 5:31 amWant to learn quilting on my machine. Help.
Amber says
April 21, 2016 at 3:03 pmSorry, I don’t quilt at all!
Pollyanna says
April 27, 2016 at 3:57 pmWhat do the little 1, 2, and 3 mean beside stitch selections 45 – 48? They all look like straight stitches to me. What’s the difference?
Amber says
May 23, 2016 at 8:52 pmI have no idea! Sorry!
Pollyanna says
May 24, 2016 at 5:33 amActually, I think I know the answer to my own question! I think they are used as spacers when programming stitches in sequence. Give it a try!
Valerie Mercer says
June 17, 2016 at 3:24 pm#35 & #36 are both topstich options used with invisible thread it gives a beautiful finish. #36 gives a handpicked look. You must try them out.
Amber says
June 18, 2016 at 3:32 pmThank you!
Pollyanna says
June 18, 2016 at 4:50 pmAre there tricks to getting the stitches to work? When I try it, they look awful!
Penny M. says
August 7, 2016 at 1:23 pmStitch #52 looks like a smocking stitch on my machine, which is generally used for sewing elastic in garments, but I have used it once as a decorative stitch. Not really what I wanted, but worked okay as the stitches on my machine are mostly just the basics. I wish I had a blanket stitch. I’m trying to figure out if I have a stitch on my machine to substitute for the blanket stitch on applique. So far…no winner. Clearly it will be something I want on a new or different machine in the future.
Jean says
September 12, 2016 at 9:35 amMy sewing machine is a Kenmore 19233 (Janome DC5100),computerized. In the LCD window, for buttonhole sewing, the word GEN appears. Can you tell me what this means? Thank you.Jean
Amber says
September 21, 2016 at 10:42 pmYikes! I have no idea! Sorry!
Jean says
September 12, 2016 at 9:48 amCorrection please: the word that appears is SEN (not GEN). Sorry
Jean
Rambox says
October 2, 2016 at 1:58 pmStarted learning sewing & this post made me more interesting on this topic
kolunaco says
November 27, 2016 at 2:06 amJanome has some good sewing machines for beginners!
Mary says
January 10, 2017 at 2:13 amAMEN! Feel like I’ve hit the jackpot with this list. Can’t thank you enough for the help with my first Janome machine.
Amber says
January 19, 2017 at 11:05 amLove Janome!
Cholly says
January 21, 2017 at 12:33 pmSaddle stitches are used when piecing leather.
Mary says
January 23, 2017 at 10:03 amSuper helpful, thanks! I recently got a Janome 2014. What machine is yours?
Amber says
February 10, 2017 at 10:15 amI have a Memory Craft 9500
Kayte says
February 17, 2017 at 11:14 amHi Amber!
I am a new owner to a used Janome Horizon 7700. Can you tell me what the little squares made with dots mean? They are pictured next to L.S. Thank you!
Amber says
February 28, 2017 at 7:19 pmI’m not sure! Did you figure it out?
Kayte says
March 1, 2017 at 12:18 pmNot really! lol! Someone suggested they may for leaving a space in the stitch design. If I’m making any sense. I haven’t tried them, but I’ll just not worry about them right now since I have so much else to learn. ;) Thanks for checking back with me!
Sarah Wunderlich says
May 21, 2017 at 8:45 pmThe saddle stitch is used for sturdier stretch seams, decorative top stitching on knits. It’s a better looking stretch stitch as well.
The one next to the saddle stitch is a mock running stitch, used to simulate hand quilting. It is used with a nylon filament “invisible thread” in the top (sometimes bobbin, check manual) to create the look.
Catherine says
September 10, 2017 at 4:23 pmFrom Dictionary com:
Sewing. an overcasting stitch, especially one made with a strip of leather or a thick leatherlike cord. a spaced running stitch in contrasting or heavy thread, used mainly for decoration, usually along an edge.
Julie says
September 21, 2017 at 7:05 pmI am curious about using satin stitches or fancy stitches to quilt. Do these stitches look the same on both the top and bottom sides of the quilt? or is the stitch pretty on the top only?
Amber says
November 29, 2017 at 10:48 pmThey should look the same on both sides.
Sue says
November 20, 2017 at 10:03 amThank you so much. You’ve made me another happy, smarter Janome sewer.
I’ve printed this out and hung it on my wall for future reference!
Amber says
November 29, 2017 at 10:37 pmLove to hear that!
Jennifer says
April 4, 2018 at 9:09 pmThank you so much for putting this together. I just got the Janome Magnolia 7330 and the manual didn’t tell me what the stitches were for. this list was very helpful
Amber says
April 11, 2018 at 10:04 pmHappy sewing!
QueenOH10 says
June 8, 2018 at 9:21 amThank you. The Manual that came with my machine doesn’t show me the stitch names, but instructions tell me to use a certain stitch.
As a beginner this is super helpful.
ANN says
July 14, 2018 at 12:26 am35 AND 36 LOOK GREAT IN AN EMBROIDERY THREAD TO DECORATE CLOTHES, PLACE MATS, BAGS ETC. ESPECIALLY ATTRACTIVE IN VARIEGATED THREAD
Linda Bryan says
January 10, 2019 at 3:51 pmThe three-step zigzag is intended for mending. You can use it to essentially recreate fabric where the original fabric has failed, such as L-shaped tears. Put a piece of backing behind the repair area, then use the 3-step zigzag to build new fabric. If your machine allows you to adjust the spacing of stitches, set for widest stitches but rather close zigging; this will allow you to create a lot of new fabric where the tear has left a jagged edge. Don’t cut off the rough edge; incorporate it in the rebuilt area.
I use this for blown-out knees on jeans, for barbed wire tears on sporting clothing, for areas at armhole where the fabric has raveled and there is nothing to sew to when you want to repair a torn armhole.