What’s the Project? Need to know how to sew a zipper? (You can admit if you’re scared-they can be tricky!) They don’t have to be hard. This tutorial will walk you through all the basics of adding in a zipper when sewing.
It’s another week of the Learn to Sew series! Now we’ve reached the lesson where my mom might start to cringe. I’m going to teach you how to sew a zipper in. People seem to get really scared of zippers and I don’t feel like they are worth the fear. But, I am also not sure that I do it by the book (the reason for my mom’s cringing). But guess what? The way I do them works and takes only a few minutes and is not too hard.
Learn to Sew: How to Sew a Zipper
You don’t have to be intimiated by how to sew a zipper! It’s not as hard as you think.
First of all, you need to buy a zipper. That’s pretty easy. There are different types. The kind I usually use is the Polyester but there are also metal and things. You are going to find them in the notions section of your store and they are going to be organized by color and length, so be sure to pay attention to what length of zipper you need. And generally, unless otherwise noted, get the polyester kind.
So, once you have your zipper, open it up. Now, on the inside, you are actually going to find instructions on how to insert a zipper. You will find 2 different ways. Centered or lapped application. What I am going to teach you today is a centered application. If you ever need to do lapped just remember that the instructions are there.
Next, find your zipper foot. It should look something like this:
Attach it to your machine. To do this, you are going to take off your presser foot (check your manual for how to do this on your machine, but it’s likely that there’s a little red button/spring on the back that you push and it pops off. Then you will put the zipper foot under there BUT you will need to either insert it to the left side or the right, NOT centered like a presser foot. See how it is on the right in this picture?
You’re going to want it so that the needle is on whichever side you are sewing on. So if the zipper is to the left of your needle, the zipper foot should be inserted on the left.
To sew in the zipper, the first thing you do is baste shut the area that you are going to be sewing. So, for the skirt that we will be making for this week’s project, you would be basting shut one of the side seams. You’ll want to baste just the part that the zipper will cover and use a regular stitch to sew the rest of the seam. To figure this out, lay your zipper where you need it to be eventually and mark the bottom with a pin:
Then move your zipper of the way and do you basting to where the pin is and your regular stitch for the rest.
*Note, it is going to be much easier to sew the zipper in if you use a wide seam allowance for the seam we just talked about. I recommend at least a 1-inch seam while you are learning this skill.
Now, press your seam open in the part that the zipper will be going:
Place your zipper so that the center of the zipper lines up with your seam and pin it in place:
Now you will sew down one side of the zipper, across the bottom and up the other side, all the way to the top. Move your zipper foot to whatever side you need it on so that the needle is close to the zipper as you sew.
Now turn it over and use your seam ripper to remove your basting stitches:
If you have done it correctly it should look like this:
And when you pull it open like this you should see no raw edges showing:
In this case you can see that I left some space at the top to hem the fabric down to make the waistband for a skirt I was sewing.
And that’s it. That’s how to sew a zipper. Now, be patient with yourself. Zippers are a more advanced skill than anything I have taught you before. If you have to rip the zipper our and try again a few times…that’s normal. Just keep practicing but don’t be intimidated and don’t give up!
Your Assignment:
- Sew something with a zipper! Note that some of the projects I am showing you below will use different techniques to sew zippers. Some are easier than others. But just sew something with a zipper this week!
Then head to the final lesson, Lesson #7: How to Sew a Buttonhole
Beginner:
Moderate:
Advanced:
Jana says
February 11, 2013 at 5:51 amI’m a little behind, but I finally finished my handbag!
It isn’t quite perfect, there’s some puckering and wrinkling, but I love it anyway. It’s mine and I designed and made it all by myself!
montse says
February 11, 2013 at 7:49 amI’ve been looking forward for this lesson. I’m one of the people that fears how to do this. I know I will need some practice but like every week, you make it look so easy! Thanks again!
Chelsey says
February 11, 2013 at 8:00 amIt looks so easy when you do it! I’m sure it will take me quite a bit of concentration, but I will surely need to know how to add a zipper at some point in my life, so learn I must!
Chelsey says
February 11, 2013 at 8:03 amand oooooohhh noooo! I wish I had known about the fabric blowout coming up next week online! I have been to the fabric store 3 times in the past week stocking up on beautiful things, lol.
Amber says
February 11, 2013 at 1:09 pmWhat fabric blowout?
Chelsey says
February 13, 2013 at 5:45 amOn the Fat Quarter Shop’s page there is a banner for a Fabric Blowout sale starting on the 18th (if I remember right)!
Amber says
February 13, 2013 at 2:12 pmOh cool!
Jacque says
February 11, 2013 at 8:20 amI’ve ALWAYS had problems with putting in zipper. Thanks for the great tutorial / lesson!
Kristina Calkins says
February 11, 2013 at 9:44 amI love your simple tutorials and projects. I look forward to making a skirt for me and my girls.
I really needed the zipper tutorial. Thanks!
Jess says
February 11, 2013 at 10:34 amWell this seems easy enough…LOL I pinned it for later! :)
Rose says
February 11, 2013 at 4:13 pmYour tutorial is very clear, and easy to understand. I’ve done zippers years ago, but did a little refresher, and will bookmark this for my daughter, who is learning to sew.
Thanks!
Diane Collins says
February 11, 2013 at 4:21 pmThis really gives a clear, easy to follow way to put in a zipper. Following forward instructions is confusing for beginners. This is great!
Aimee C says
February 11, 2013 at 6:22 pmThank you! THis is a great tutorial! I’ve been needing this to replace a zipper on my only black skirt! will do it this week! :)
Ashley says
February 11, 2013 at 6:49 pmI’ve been so nervous to try and sew a zipper. This just might be the kick in the butt I need :)
Kayla Ott says
February 11, 2013 at 6:56 pmGreat tutorial! Thanks for the giveaway!!
Nikki says
February 11, 2013 at 7:02 pmMy sewing machine did not come with a zipper foot. Where would you go to buy one?
Amber says
February 11, 2013 at 8:08 pmProbably to any sewing store or dealer.
Nikki says
February 11, 2013 at 7:04 pmMy sewing machine did not come with a zipper foot. Where would you go to buy one? I would like to get a dipper foot and make a skirt for my daughter.
Nikki says
February 11, 2013 at 10:14 pmYay. I can finally sew a zipper! Go me. & thank you (:
cheryl says
February 12, 2013 at 7:47 amDoes this method work when sewing a bodice to a skirt. I am making a dress for my daughter.
Thanks!!
Amber says
February 13, 2013 at 2:14 pmSure, this is always how to sew a zipper in.
Dominique says
February 12, 2013 at 2:47 pmThank you for having zippers in the lessons!! Sewing a zipper was the first thing I sewed and your tutorial is much easier than I made it for myself! And I had no idea how to use the zipper foot! Now I do!! Thank you!!
Amber says
February 13, 2013 at 2:13 pmSo happy to hear that!
Kim H says
February 12, 2013 at 8:56 pmI was scared to do this project. But I did it (in one night too!) and it turned out great! I had to rip out the zipper 1.5 times, just as you said, but your pep talk and the reassurance that it was normal helped me a lot. Great tutorial!
Amber says
February 13, 2013 at 2:13 pmWay to go!!!
Cathy says
February 13, 2013 at 12:44 amThis is how I put zippers in…except I just use my regular foot and I don’t pin it….I just lift it up and make sure I’m centered on the seam…..Mom taught me this when I was 8 years old….
Amber says
February 13, 2013 at 2:12 pmShhh…the truth is that I don’t usually use my zipper foot either. But I thought I better teach it properly.
Karis says
February 17, 2013 at 5:35 amLoved the refresher on zippers – it’s been about 18 years since I’ve sewn one, so this was an awesome tutorial and a fun project :)
mang h. says
February 17, 2013 at 2:26 pmI had always used the regular foot to sew zippers because I was afraid to change it out and mess with anything on the machine! Then I found out how easy it was to change the foot!
Allison P says
February 17, 2013 at 6:26 pmZippers seem intimidating, but it wasn’t so bad. :)
Carissa says
February 17, 2013 at 8:02 pmi didn’t do this week’s lesson yet. but it looks super easy. my last attempt at a zipper instalation failed so I will use your method next. :-)
savana says
February 17, 2013 at 8:02 pmThanks for the great tutorials! And id love to win some free fabric.
Leah says
February 17, 2013 at 8:05 pmI’m loving your lessons. I even told a friend of mine who got her first sewing machine about your tutorial and she’s now learning with you too.
Samantha Long says
February 17, 2013 at 9:12 pmI have not been able to get to it yet but I hope to catch up soon.
Krystal Phillips says
February 17, 2013 at 9:42 pmReally makes it seem less intimidating. Not sure I am quite up to speed with this yet, but I will sure keep working towards it!
Jehi says
February 8, 2014 at 5:22 pmThanks!!! Very helpful!!! :D
Melissa S says
March 27, 2015 at 9:19 pmA few decades ago I used scotch tape to hold the zipper in place instead of pins. I had trouble keeping the zipper staight by using pins. Carefully pull the tape off as soon as you’re done stitching.
Diane says
February 2, 2016 at 2:52 pmGreat tutorial!! Was just wondering how to judge how far down from the top the zipper should begin. I was thinking about 3/4 – 1″; does that sound reasonable?
Amber says
February 3, 2016 at 10:53 amDepends on what you are sewing, but if you are hemming the top then yes, that’s about the right amount.
Cynthia says
March 4, 2017 at 10:47 pmGreat tutorial, thanks..!! Very helpful..
Marisnna says
September 10, 2018 at 10:50 amI have a passion for band bags but i strugle to insert a zip everytime i try i cannot get it right please help.